The City of Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Gardens

Every quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel-powered train arrives at a graffiti-covered stop. Close by, a law enforcement alarm pierces the near-constant traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered garden fences as storm clouds gather.

It is perhaps the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established vineyard. But one local grower has managed to four dozen established plants heavy with plump mauve grapes on a rambling allotment sandwiched between a row of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of the city town centre.

"I've seen individuals concealing illegal substances or whatever in the shrubbery," states Bayliss-Smith. "But you simply continue ... and continue caring for your grapevines."

The cameraman, 46, a documentary cameraman who also has a fermented beverage company, is not the only local vintner. He's organized a loose collective of growers who produce vintage from four discreet city grape gardens nestled in back gardens and allotments across the city. It is sufficiently underground to possess an formal title yet, but the group's WhatsApp group is called Vineyard Dreams.

City Vineyards Around the World

So far, the grower's plot is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming world atlas, which includes better-known urban wineries such as the 1,800 vines on the slopes of the French capital's renowned artistic district neighbourhood and more than three thousand vines with views of and within Turin. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the forefront of a initiative re-establishing city vineyards in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them all over the world, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Central Asia.

"Vineyards assist urban areas remain greener and more diverse. These spaces protect land from development by creating long-term, productive agricultural units within urban environments," says the association's president.

Like all wines, those created in urban areas are a product of the earth the plants grow in, the unpredictability of the weather and the individuals who care for the fruit. "Each vintage embodies the charm, local spirit, landscape and history of a city," notes the spokesperson.

Mystery Eastern European Variety

Back in Bristol, the grower is in a urgent timeline to harvest the vines he grew from a cutting abandoned in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the precipitation comes, then the pigeons may seize their chance to attack once more. "Here we have the mystery Eastern European variety," he says, as he removes bruised and mouldy berries from the glistering bunches. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and additional renowned European varieties – you need not spray them with chemicals ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."

Group Activities Across Bristol

The other members of the collective are also making the most of bright periods between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking Bristol's shimmering waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with casks of wine from France and Spain, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately 50 vines. "I love the aroma of the grapevines. It is so reminiscent," she remarks, stopping with a basket of grapes slung over her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you open the car windows on holiday."

The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly inherited the vineyard when she returned to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her family in recent years. She felt an strong responsibility to look after the grapevines in the yard of their new home. "This plot has previously survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I deeply appreciate the concept of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they continue producing from the soil."

Terraced Vineyards and Natural Winemaking

A short walk away, the final two members of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated over one hundred fifty vines perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she notes, indicating the interwoven grape garden. "They can't believe they are viewing rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, Scofield, 60, is picking clusters of dusty purple dark berries from lines of vines arranged along the cliff-side with the assistance of her child, her family member. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's Great National Parks series and television network's Gardeners' World, was motivated to plant grapes after observing her neighbor's vines. She has learned that amateurs can make interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can command prices of more than £7 a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments specialising in low-processing wines. "It is deeply rewarding that you can truly create quality, natural wine," she says. "It is quite on trend, but in reality it's reviving an old way of making wine."

"When I tread the fruit, the various natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces and enter the juice," says Scofield, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, seeds and red liquid. "This represents how vintages were made traditionally, but commercial producers introduce sulphur [dioxide] to kill the natural cultures and subsequently add a lab-grown culture."

Difficult Conditions and Creative Solutions

A few doors down active senior another cultivator, who inspired Scofield to plant her grapevines, has gathered his friends to harvest white wine varieties from one hundred vines he has laid out neatly across two terraces. Reeve, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who worked at Bristol University developed a passion for wine on regular visits to France. However it is a challenge to cultivate this particular variety in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines in this location, which is a bit bonkers," admits the retiree with amusement. "This variety is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."

"My goal was creating European-style vintages in this environment, which is rather ambitious"

The unpredictable local weather is not the only challenge encountered by grape cultivators. The gardener has had to install a fence on

Cynthia Watson
Cynthia Watson

A passionate linguist and writer dedicated to helping others improve their communication through creative storytelling.